Last Day in Estonia:
A Tasteless Last Supper Without Annela
The final day of our training in Tallinn began with an inspiring session on e-Government in Justice by Mr. Ingmar Vali. Estonia’s company registration system was remarkable: by filling in a few details, making minor amendments to the Articles of Association, and paying a fee of €185, a company could be incorporated online in just 18 minutes, with formal registration completed within two hours by an Assistant Judge acting as Registrar. No paperwork, no notary, and no personal interface—an impressive demonstration of Estonia’s commitment to digital governance.
Our IPS colleague Kuldeep Singh found the session particularly engaging, though his greater triumph seemed to be finally striking up a conversation with Ms. Katlin Kattai, Head of International Relations. After days of energetic attempts—jogging, hopping on and off buses, and endlessly scratching his head in contemplation—the “Son of Sardar” finally had his moment. By evening, it was unmistakably a celebration of Balle Balle.
Later, we visited the Estonian Land Board, where Mr. Andres Juss explained geodetic mapping and Mr. Kristian Teiter discussed land valuation. Their extensive use of helicopter-based aerial surveys through private agencies was technologically impressive, though undeniably expensive. We also learnt how land values, last revised in 2001, had limited the government’s potential revenue from property registration.
Lunch at the small restaurant Mecorty was delightful. Salmon was served to the non-vegetarians, while vegetarians enjoyed open sandwiches accompanied by beautifully peeled, colourful potatoes. A homemade candy ice cream, elegantly presented, completed a memorable meal.
A brief visit to the e-Governance Academy allowed us to meet the staff, wander through its vibrant corridors, and even explore a charming replica of Tutankhamun’s museum. The institute radiated creativity and innovation in digital governance.
The concluding technical session by Ms. Mary Pedak on Estonia’s National Identity Card and electronic identification was concise, practical, and impressive.
The undeniable star of the day, however, was Ms. Annela Kirrats, our Training Manager and the group favourite. Dressed in a bright lemon-yellow suit with pearl earrings, a gold chain, black sweater, and black shoes, she looked radiant. Her graceful interventions throughout the programme and cheerful presence had endeared her to everyone. Vinay Thakur happily posed for a photograph with her, joking that it deserved a place in his drawing room. More than one participant quietly remarked that she looked every bit a model.
The programme concluded with certificates presented by Mr. Ivar Tallo and Mr. Arvo Ott, followed by group photographs expertly captured by Partho on his Nikon SLR. In a thoughtful gesture, Annela first presented chocolates to Mona, the only lady participant, and then to everyone else—ensuring there was no room for accusations of gender bias.
Our last evening in Tallinn was devoted to hurried shopping through the Old Town, Viru Keskus, and Stockmann. Estonia’s famous chocolates and dairy products filled many suitcases, while others indulged in fashionable clothing and sportswear. At Viru Keskus, I had a delightful encounter with Ibo Scodovsky, a Krishna devotee wearing a tulsi mala. He warmly invited us to the Hare Krishna temple near Tallinn’s National Library, where devotees gather every Sunday for kirtan, the Gita, and prasada.
And then came the much-anticipated Last Supper at Hotel Solaris—ironically, the most forgettable meal of the tour. Without Annela’s cheerful presence, everything seemed strangely bland. Vegetarians were weary of familiar sandwiches and potatoes, while non-vegetarians complained about tasteless chicken and confused serving arrangements. Vivek Kamat’s expressive eyes conveyed more disappointment than any facial-recognition technology ever could.
Beer, wine, chicken, sandwiches, cake, and salad—all were sampled, all were abandoned.
The Last Supper in Tallinn was tasteless without Annela.
As we packed for home, we carried far more than chocolates and souvenirs. We returned with lasting memories of Estonia’s extraordinary e-governance, its serene beauty, warm hospitality, and a training programme that left an indelible mark on all of us.
Punamchand 28 August 2014
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